There’s a lot of information about whales, but little of it explains why seeing one is so memorable. Perhaps it’s because of their size, which is tough to discern unless a humpback or orca happens to gift us with a rare but spectacular breach. Perhaps it’s because they’re mammals and not fish, and therefore notably intelligent and highly social. Maybe it’s because of the stories we tell about whales, from Jonah to Moby Dick, Pinocchio to Free Willy. Or perhaps it’s because this graceful, unique creature was almost hunted to extinction, reminding us of human cruelty, the fragility of nature, and how close we all come to the brink. Regardless, chances are high you’re going to see a whale when visiting Newfoundland in summer, or hiking the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island. Let’s learn a little more about what in fact you might see.
There are an estimated thirty species of whale migrating along Canada’s 200,000 kilometres of shoreline. Our most common whale watching rock star is the humpback, renowned for its seasonal migrations, loud fin slaps, distinctive hump and full body breaches. Growing up to 19-metres long and living up to 90 years of age, Megaptera (the humpback’s fancy Latin name) are common off the coast of Newfoundland and British Columbia during summer months. When you see a large whale off the coast during the East Coast or West Coast Trail, it’s likely a humpback, migrating from the Caribbean or returning from Mexico or Hawaii. That said, it could also be the smaller, fast-moving and abundant minke whale too. Minke whales can stay underwater for up to 15 minutes without needing a breath, and seldom show their flukes (tails). Although they’re the smallest baleen whale, they still grow up to 10.6m long and weigh 9 tons, so you won’t be confusing them with dolphins or porpoises. Be grateful they’re not spouting close to you on the water; there’s a reason they’re known as Stinky Minkes!
Humpbacks and minkes may be common, but it’s not uncommon to spot other whale species off both coasts. On the East Coast, these include pilot whales, North Atlantic right whales, orcas, and the elusive fin whale (second only to the blue whale in terms of size). Off Vancouver Island, you might encounter both resident and transient orca populations, along with gray whales and fin whales. How will you know what kind of whale you’re looking at? If you’re a marine biologist, there are very clear signs that relate not only the species, but the individual as well. For the rest of us, try and discern the size and shape. When surfacing, humpbacks have a dorsal fin towards the back and pop out the water quite a bit, sprouting with a large cloud of spray. Minke whales look similar but a lot smaller, and seldom spout at all. Fin whales will be longer with a more pronounced fin and a taller, ice-cream cone shaped spout. Orcas are perhaps the most distinctive of the toothed whales with their upright dorsal fins, flat spouts and clear markings. You’ll know if you’ve seen a beluga whale by their distinctive colour (the word beluga comes from “white ones” in Russian), their melon-shaped heads, and if you’re close enough, by the distinct vocalizations of a whale known as the canaries of the sea. Each summer, belugas swim south from the Arctic and summer in Canada as far south as the St Lawrence Estuary in Quebec, passing the East Coast of Newfoundland along the way. In truth, by the time you start looking for clues about what you’re seeing it’s likely the whale would have submerged again, so enjoy the moment and let your guide fill you in later.
A handy trick to spot whales is to scan the horizon for anything unusual. Merely looking at the water can be hard with the contrasts, and just like the abundance of ‘rock lions’ on safari, you’ll likely see plenty of ‘wave whales’. See if any birds are flying overhead, often drawn to the same prey the whale is hunting, and there might be whale watching or fishing boats enjoying the scene too.
Of course, like all wildlife, there’s no guarantee you’ll see anything. I’ve been on whale watching excursions that guaranteed a 99.9% chance of seeing whales, and somehow find myself in the 0.1% zone (or the victim of dubious marketing!) My very best whale watching experiences were spontaneous and unplanned for. On a small fishing boat off the coast of Newfoundland, a pod of orca encircled us for about fifteen minutes. I remember the bull’s dorsal fin being taller than me, and the look, however brief, of a curious eyeball gazing back at us just feet away from the edge of the boat. It left me in no doubt whatsoever that these are intelligent, playful and curious creatures, and it was a bucket list thrill to have that encounter.
Whether you happen to see a whale up close in the distance, or not at all, just knowing they’re out there, spouting and diving, breaching and singing their songs, makes any outdoor coastal adventure all the richer and more rewarding.
THE BEST PLACES TO GO WHALE WATCHING IN CANADA
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
- Best Time: April to October, with the highest sightings of orcas from June to September. Gray whales pass through in spring and fall, and humpbacks are often spotted in the summer.
- Locations: Victoria, Tofino, and Johnstone Strait near Telegraph Cove.
- Join me on the Canadian Bucket List in August 2024 for a one-of-a-kind kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait with karubu adventures! I’ll be hosting the trip as a Canadian Geographic Travel Ambassador, it’s going to be special.
Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
- Best Time: June to October, with peak season in August and September. This is when you have the best chance to see humpbacks, fin whales, and the rare North Atlantic right whale.
- Locations: Campobello Island, Grand Manan Island, and Digby Neck.
Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park, Quebec
- Best Time: May through October, with the prime months being July and August. This is an ideal season for spotting blue whales, belugas, and minke whales.
- Locations: Tadoussac and the meeting point of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence rivers.
Churchill, Manitoba
- Best Time: July and August, when thousands of beluga whales gather in Hudson Bay and the Churchill River, offering a truly unique experience.
- Activities: Opportunities to kayak or even snorkel with belugas for an immersive experience.
- Read my Canadian Geographic column about my beluga whale experience in Churchill.
Newfoundland and Labrador
- Best Time: June to August for humpbacks, minke whales, and orcas. Early spring, especially in April and May, is also a good time to see whales alongside drifting icebergs.
- Locations: St. John’s, Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, and Trinity Bay.
